About Weaving
織物は、経糸と緯糸を織機にかけて交互に組み合わせて織り、生地をつくります。糸の染め方や織り方によって色々な模様をつくることができ、どんなに複雑に見えても、経糸と緯糸の組み合わせによってできています。
| What is weaving? |
Weaving is a technique of textiles in which warp and weft threads are intertwined on a loom. Different patterns can be created depending on how the threads are dyed and woven, and no matter how complex it may seem, the fabrid is created by the combination of warp and weft threads.
Types of Weaving
【Plain weave】This method involves alternating warp and weft threads at right angles. It is a fundamental weaving method used for fabrics like Habutae, Chirimen, Kasuri, and Tsumugi. Along with Aya-ori (twill weave) and Shusu-ori (satin weave), it is one of the fundamental weave structures.
【Float weave】This is a weaving method where several warp or weft threads are allowed to ‘float’ on the surface of the fabric to create patterns using those threads.
| Kasuri fabric |
Kasuri fabric is made using dyed threads that leave white spots. Depending on how the dyed threads are combined, it can express striped patterns, checkered patterns, and even picture-like designs.
What is Kasuri Thread?
Sections of thread are tied with string, dipped in a dye solution to be dyed. The areas tied with string remain undyed, creating white patterns when the string is removed after washing. By utilizing the color variations of these Kasuri threads, patterns woven by combining warp and weft threads are collectively referred to as Kasuri patterns.
| Tsumugi weaving |
It is a silk fabric made by using Tsumugi threads. Compared to silk fabric made from raw silk, it has less luster and smoothness on the surface, resulting in a rustic texture. While it often features striped or Kasuri patterns, in recent years, various dyed threads have been used to create expressions like gradations. The light, durable, and flexible feel of Tsumugi is suitable for kimono and obi.
Tsumugi Thread Making Process
① Silk threads of silkworms become cocoons
② From left to right: raw silk, cotton, silk reeled from cocoons
③ Drawing silk threads from cotton
④ Dyeing Tsumugi threads in dye solution
〈Making Process of Tsumugi Weaving〉
①Prepare the required number and length of warp threads and wind them on a spool.
②Wind the weft threads onto bobbins and set them on a tool called a shuttle.
③Weave by passing the weft threads from the shuttle through the warp threads on the loom.
④Finish the fabric to the size of one kimono piece, approximately 40 centimeters wide and 13 meters long.
| Echigo Jofu |
Echigo Jofu is a traditional textile made from the fibers of a perennial grass called ramie (also known as karamushi). Using primitive looms, weavers adjust the tension of the warp threads with their waist while weaving to align the weft pattern. The woven fabric is softened by kneading in hot water or exposed on snow on a clear winter day. Colored fabrics become subdued, white fabrics become whiter, resulting in high-quality summer kimonos.
| Saga Nishiki |
Saga Nishiki uses dyed silk threads for the weft and thin strips of Japanese paper called "tategami" for the warp. These strips of tategami are scooped up with a bamboo spatula to match the pattern, and the weft threads are passed through the created gaps. By passing the weft threads through the gaps in the tategami, neatly arranged patterns are formed.
〈Making Process of Saga Nishiki〉
①Scoop up the tategami gaps according to the design.
②Pass the weft threads through the gaps repeatedly until completion.
| Kumihimo (Japanese Braiding) |
Kumihimo refers to braids made by crossing several bundles of threads. Kumihimo has been used for various purposes such as tying or fastening objects since ancient times. In modern times, various patterns of kumihimo are made as obijime for kimonos.
〈Making Process of Kumihimo〉
①Dye the threads and cut them to the desired length.
②Attach weights to the bundles of threads, set them on a stand, and braid them.
| Embroidery |
Embroidery is a technique that dates back to the Asuka period. It involves sewing with a needle and dyed thread to create free-form patterns on fabric.
〈Making Process of Embroidery〉
①Draw the outline of the pattern on the fabric with a solution of water-diluted chalk.
②Stretch the fabric on an embroidery frame and embroider.
③After finishing the embroidery, secure the back threads with glue, and iron to complete.
＜Source: "What is Traditional Kōgei? Edited by Japan Kōgei Association East Japan Branch / Published by Unsodo, P24~27>
